Autumn Weekend in Virginia

"I believe the nicest and sweetest days are not those on which anything very splendid or wonderful or exciting happens but just those that bring simple little pleasures, following one another softly, like pearls slipping off a string." -- Anne in Anne of Avonlea

I just had two of those days! My trip began with an early morning departure on Saturday. It is interesting to me that even though I left my house at exactly the same time which I leave every morning for school, but somehow it felt so different. My very fingers clutched the steering wheel differently, and a sense of excitement filled my heart. I was leaving on a journey, albeit short.

My destination was Damascus, Virginia, a quiet hamlet in at the center of the Virginia Creeper Trail which follows an old railroad line from Abingdon to White Top Mountain, a total of 34 miles. Damascus is filled with bike rental/shuttle services which will take you to the top of White Top Mountain. Once at the top, you can take your own time riding back down to Damascus on the most amazing Rails to Trails route that I have been on. Below are several pictures I took on the trail. Those marked with an (*) were actually taken last year.

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Riding all the way to Abingdon is also an option, but that part of the trail is flatter and often runs unshaded near a busy road. I prefer to ride only the 17 mile downhill stretch from White Top to Damascus. This part crosses 29 bridges, passes an access to the Appalachian Trail, and meanders under gorgeous trees. There are many other riders on the trail, so be aware that it will not be exactly a time of solitude. I have ridden alone on each of my trips, and am often passed by faster riders. I do a good bit of passing others myself though. 

After my morning of bike riding, I made my way to Wytheville, Virginia where I love to spend the night. It is a small town near the intersection of Interstates 77 and 81 (neither of which I drive on to get there). It is the birthplace of Edith Bolling Wilson, wife of Woodrow Wilson. There is a hotel there which bears her name. The hotel houses the restaurant Graze on Main which I have written about in an earlier post (How to Make Your Trip More Meaningful) and I could not wait to visit it again. I was NOT disappointed. I had the blackened salmon as I did before, but the meal has been upgraded in the last year. See my meal below. The orchid is a new addition, and I liked it! They now place an orchid on every plate to commemorate Wilson's giving his wife the flower every day that they were married! 

I was served by Shelby, a friendly competent young woman who took good care of me. I sat next to a couple from Winston-Salem, and we had an enjoyable impromptu talk about the Creeper Trail and shopping at The Loft!

The final part of my Autumn weekend was my scenic route back. I love to take the road less traveled, and this time I kind of took the road not traveled. I saw a sign near a gravel side road that directed drivers to a mountain overlook and took it. I soon worried that I wouldn't make it back down. Then I worried that I wouldn't make it anywhere. God was watching out for me and gave me a place to carefully turn around. I prayed my way back down over large pointy rocks and deep treacherous gullies, finally making it back to my original detour turn. Upon looking at the sign again, I noticed the small addendum at the bottom, "Not recommended for passenger cars." Oops! I got some pretty pictures though...

The next few are just some random pics from my drive. I can never resist abandoned buildings or overlooks.

The place where I rent my bike and ride the shuttle is Adventure Damascus. They are extremely friendly and helpful.
This is a Creeper Trail site that is helpful.

What Should I Do First in New York City???

"New York is the concentrate of art and commerce and sport and religion and entertainment and finance, bringing to a single compact arena the gladiator, the evangelist, the promoter, the actor, the trader, and the merchant. It carries on its lapel the unexpungeable odor of the long past, so that no matter where you sit in New York you feel the vibrations of great times and tall deeds."  -- E.B. White, Here is New York

I have been asked the question, "What should I do first when I get there?" so many times. It never gets any easier to answer. The city is constantly changing, never staying the same. The changes depend on the season, the holiday, the weather; New York City during Christmas was NOTHING like New York City during July! What you should do while you're there can also be dependent on who you're with and how long you're staying. I have tried to come up with a list of "Must See/Do" sites below, but keep in mind that I am a history-buff  and not a shopaholic. You might quickly tire of my love-of-the-past-view-in-the-present places and want to stop off at the nearest Loft or at Saks; do it. Make NYC the place you want it to be. It is so many different places to so many different people. My recommendations below are just to get you started, and will hopefully help you to love this amazing city as much as I do.

Tour Bus
It may sound like a  cliche activity, but for me it was so helpful. I rode both loops, Uptown and Downtown. The ride gave me a tiny feeling of familiarity on my first visit. It allowed me to see things while not being part of the hustle and bustle. Once I had a guide who was a retired college history professor, and he was awesome! You can not always be guaranteed to have the best guide, but the ride itself will not disappoint. (On a much later trip I also did the Brooklyn Loop which was fun too.)
You can make reservations online ahead of time, but I have found it to be much easier to just purchase a ticket from someone wearing a red vest. The one I have always used is the Grayline Tour Co. They have many different options available, so even if you choose not to buy your ticket online, look at all the options online first so that you have a plan when you talk to the ticket rep. Otherwise, they might sell you much more than you want!   Grayline Tour Company

Statue of Liberty/Ellis Island
This is a must! Seeing the Statue of Liberty upclose and personal is a New York rite of passage. The Ellis Island experience cannot be duplicated anywhere else in the world. Admission to the islands and the museum are free, but the fairy that you have to ride out there is not. The ferry ride itself is a great experience! This is one activity that I would reserve ahead of time, especially in the summer. You have to stand in a security line similar to the airport, and if you wait to purchase your ticket there, that's another line you have to wait in. The museum on Ellis Island and the walkways around the statue are finally back in mint condition after Hurricane Sandy; these two islands took a hard hit in that storm. (If you are a history-nut like I am, Ellis Island even offers a Hard Hat Tour which is a fee, but is SO worth it.)  Statue of Liberty/Ellis Island Ferry

Empire State Building
This is cliche, but who goes to NYC without making it to the top of the Empire State Building?? (Even if you haven't seen Sleepless in Seattle or An Affair to Remember) It is not my favorite thing to do, but I have done it twice. I think that going at night is better than daytime viewing. The lines can be ridiculous, and you get to the top and "oooh" and "aaah" with everyone else. Still, it kind of has to be done. I actually prefer Top of the Rock. The difference in height is about 30 floors. The difference in price is about $14. The biggest draw for the Top of the Rock in my opinion is that while you are waiting in line, you get to watch an informative movie/slideshow which is so interesting AND makes the waiting less tedious.
Empire State Building Tickets      Top of the Rock Tickets 

Central Park
Central Park is awesome! There is more to see and do there than can be done in a day, but be sure to put aside at least 4 hours to experience part of it on your first visit to New York City. The park is like a city in itself. There are countless paths to wander down, many types of animal life to observe, waterfalls, tunnels, a castle, a zoo... I see and experience something new there every time I visit. It is not the easiest place to find your way around in, as the paths curve and meander, but you can get an app for your phone that is a map of Central Park. Also, I learned on my last visit ( I love learning new things each time I go!) that lampposts in the park have labels which will help you locate where you are in relation to streets outside the park. (See picture below.) There are restaurants in the park, countless food carts, a gift shop at the conservatory, and ice-skating in the winter. I have done one organized park tour, but found that it wasn't really worth the money.

The top number is the nearest cross street.

 
Roosevelt Island Tram
This is a surprise experience! It only costs the swipe of your Metrocard each way, and is worth way more. This is a sky tram that takes you across traffic and across the East River to Roosevelt Island. The island itself is mostly residential with apartment buildings, stores, schools. The tram is the attraction. I love riding it at night when you can see all the lights and during the day when you can watch all the people and traffic below you. When you disembark on the island, you can loop around and get right back on or take a walk around. There is also a free shuttle that makes a circle of the island and returns to the tram station. The apartment building nearest to the station has a restaurant on the ground floor which is tasty and not too expensive. This tram ride is one of my favorite New York City experiences. Once while waiting to board on the Manhattan side, I watched a traffic jam caused by the rollover of a food cart. It was all so big-city and interesting to me. I really get a kick out of watching the traffic cops anyway; it's neat to see them directing traffic in their white gloves. It's almost a kind of dance. (Yes, I saw Flashdance, and it is like the traffic cop scene from that movie.)
You can board the tram at 59th Street and 2nd Avenue in Manhattan.

911 Memorial and Museum
There are tons of museums in New York City, and I definitely have my favorites. (Another post will be devoted strictly to museums.) but this favorite of mine is a MUST SEE. No one who remembers September 11, 2001 should pass up the opportunity to spend time at the site. The fountains themselves are awesome. The fact that there are always hundreds of people around you, yet it is nearly silent is amazing. I have read so many books about that day, and it is kind of intense to see some of the names of people I've read about along the fountains' sides. The museum is remarkable. They have done an exceptional job of depicting what happened while still respecting the lives of the people involved. It is best to purchase tickets online, and those tickets are good for six months. The cost is $24, but for an extra $20 you can get a guided tour. I have not done the guided tour yet, but it is on my to-do list. I also recommend the new subway terminal, the Oculus, and the Freedom Tower if you're doing a 911 tour day.   911 Memorial and Museum

*This ends my must-see list, but there are so many more places that I can't wait to tell about! Even after seven visits, I have not seen or done all I want to see or do!
One final recommendation before your trip, get the NYC Subway app on your phone! It is invaluable. It includes a map of sorts that can help you find your way, but also gives a map of all subway trains and stations. A new function of the app is that it will use your location to show you the closest train to you and tells you which train you should ride to get to given locations. It's a MUST HAVE!!!

Going Home

"There's no place like home; there's no place like home." -- Dorothy in TheWizard of Oz

What do you think of when you hear the word "home"? Is it the place where you were born? Where your parents live? Where you've spent the most time? For me, it conjures up the place where I lived the longest, from the age of 24 to 51. I traveled "home" recently, 678 miles from Greensboro to Meridian, Mississippi.

While there I visited with former students and old friends, went to a high school pep rally and football game, ate out, and drove around. Every street was so full of memories that as I drove around, the present was nearly crowded out by the past. I spent my entire young adult life in that town; it is FULL of memories. Having the time to revisit some of those memories was therapeutic and painful. Going "home" is possible, though not always as simple as merely making the journey.

**Meridian Notes:
Meridian is a town of about 40,000 people in east central Mississippi. It sits at the union of interstates 59 and 20 very close to the Alabama state line. It is not a tourist destination but is a spot where tourists often stop on their way to someplace else. If you find yourself to be one of those tourists anytime soon, I have some recommendations for your time there.

Best place to hike and take in nature: Bonita Lakes Park. There are bike trails through the woods and a gravel trail that goes around both lakes. There's also a playground and picnic tables in nice shady areas.

Best chicken salad: Cater's Market   It is too far from the interstate for a quick stop, but a perfect place for lunch if you are in town for 24 hours.

Best hamburger: Mugshots   There are several locations in Mississippi and Alabama and one in Louisiana. The Meridian one is located very near Cater's Market. The hamburgers are scrumptious, partly due to the yummy sourdough buns!

Best crab cakes and Southern food: Weidmann's  This is an older restaurant in downtown Meridian, not far at all from the interstate. It is slightly expensive, but worth it! Lunch is very casual, and dinner a little more formal. It comes highly recommended from several sources.

Speaking of the Sun

"God made the two great lights, the greater light to govern the day, and the lesser light to govern the night; He made the stars also. God placed them in the expanse of the heavens to give light on the earth, and to govern the day and the night, and to separate the light from the darkness; and God saw that it was good." -- Genesis 1:16-18

Today, we will experience an amazing natural phenomenon, the total solar eclipse. The last one in the United States occurred in 1979, and the next one will not be until 2024. People are excited! Me, not so much. I had a 10.5 hour drive across the Path of Totality yesterday. I had to cut short a special trip due to traffic concerns. The traffic was crazy!

We humans are fascinated with the sun, the moon, the stars, and the planets. My prayer is that we would be more fascinated by the Creator of these heavenly bodies. The fact remains that people always seem to put great stock in the movements and behaviors of these celestial objects. The whole thing has made me think about another one of my New York Moments.

I am always on the lookout for interesting and unique things to do on my trips to NYC. Prior to my summer of 2016 trip I saw online that on an evening during my visit the sunset would line up exactly with New York's east-west streets! That sounded like a really neat thing to see! As I planned my trip I scheduled myself to be in Riverside Park at sunset of that night. What did not occur to me (in my self-absorption) was that many people would want to see this same unique event. 

I went to the park a little before sunset and got some great pictures, and then made my way east along the closest street. (I was in the 90's.) I soon realized that the street was quite empty! I turned around and was shocked to see that the police had set up barriers blocking off the street, and there were hundreds, maybe thousands, of people there to see MY unique event! I ended up feeling even happier that I was involved in a New York special event and got over the fact that my important sunset discovery was not as secret as I had thought! It is now one of my very special New York moments.

New York City Restaurants

"The most splendid dinner I ever saw, a profusion of rich dishes." -- John Adams -- First Continental Congress, 1774 at Fraunces Tavern

A 2010 survey found that New York City ranks #4 in the country for number of restaurants per capita. I personally am astounded by these findings. I would have thought it would come in higher than that, for sure. (To see the top ten, click here: Top Ten Restaurants per Capita; #2, what!!!!) In all my visits to the city, I have only repeated three restaurants; there are just too many out there, and I feel the compulsion to try as many as possible! I do have my favorites, however, that list is totally fluid; with each visit, I find another restaurant to love. I am definitely not a restaurant critic, or even a foody. I am drawn to the restaurants I like using these criteria: historical importance, location, service, interesting clientele, cost, and taste. None of the places on my list are 5-star or even terribly spectacular; I just like them.

One of my favorite "go-to" restaurants in the city is Manhattan Diner. It's just around the corner from my hotel, so it's a good place to go when I need to grab a bite before heading out somewhere. The food is good, and the portions are extremely generous (especially for New York). The staff is very personable. One of the things I love about Manhattan Diner is that it's a locals restaurant. I've seen people come in and not even have to order their drinks because the server just already knows. I love that! Once I watched them lay out an entire meal at a table before the elderly lady who sat there even arrived! Their menu is varied, and I have ordered several different items and loved them all. They have desserts, but I've always been too full to get one. I think my favorite selection there was the Argentinian Style Grilled Skirt Steak Wrap. Mmmmmm! It was one of my try-something-new choices, and I was very satisfied.

Located at 2532 Broadway (between 94th and 95th Streets)

Manhattan Diner Info and Menu

Another restaurant which I love for quite different reasons is Fraunces Tavern. This small quaint establishment is located in the Financial District. The building was first used as a restaurant in 1762. It has been the meeting place for the Sons of Liberty, a headquarters for George Washington, and is currently a museum and restaurant. I am always in awe when I eat there, because, hey, I'm eating exactly where George Washington ate!!!  The attraction of the restaurant for me is the history, but the food is yummy (though not inexpensive). My favorite is the chicken pot pie! 

                                                                                                                                                                                                               Located at 54 Pearl Street
                                                                                                            Fraunces Tavern Menu 

The next two restaurants on my list are strictly touristy. I have been to both of them more than once, but never by myself. I only go to take someone who has never been. The food is pretty expensive at both places, but you're paying for the entertainment at the first and for the name at the second.

Ellen's Stardust Diner is the restaurant where aspiring Broadway actors and actresses work while they are trying to get their "big break." To the delight of all diners, these talented young people sing in the restaurant while serving you. Having a meal there may be a chunk of change, but it's also a very unique experience!

Located at 1650 Broadway (on the corner near Wicked)

Ellen's Stardust Diner Info and Menu

New York City (including all boroughs) is simply packed with pizza parlors, restaurants, stands, etc. The most popular is probably any that say "brick oven." It is almost overwhelming when you try to choose a place to get a pizza. The locals all have their favorites, so if you want a really good pizza, ask the doorman at your hotel, the cabby, the guy next to you on the train. For a certified tourist-fix, go to Grimaldi's Under the Bridge. The "bridge" is the Brooklyn Bridge, and yes, Grimaldi's is in Brooklyn. I did not find the staff to be the friendliest or the pizza to be the ultimate best, but I have been twice to experience it with two different friends. I like the pizza, and it's an interesting place to go. Tons of celebrities have been there, so pictures are everywhere. Brooklyn is a great place to go anyway, so why not Grimaldi's? There are many "Grimaldi's" out there, so make sure you go to the one under the bridge.

        Located at 1 Front Street in Brooklyn (white building)

                                    Grimaldi's  





Wherever you go, rest assured it will be an experience (hopefully good). New York has so many ethnic restaurants that you'll never have to eat the same kind of food twice unless you just want to. One of my favorite things about any NYC restaurant is people watching; that always makes the meal anywhere more fun! Enjoy and comment below about your favorite New York restaurant!

Summit Avenue in St. Paul

"Most men who have really lived have had, in some share, their great adventure. This railway is mine." -- James J. Hill

James J. Hill, the financier of the Stone Arch Bridge, (The Bridges of Hennepin County) made his home on Summit Avenue. On the recommendation of one of the kayak guides from my trip down the Mississippi River, I made my way to the famed Summit Avenue and James J. Hill's home. I was pleasantly surprised by the avenue and the home!

Summit Avenue makes its way from the area around the Cathedral of Saint Paul to Grand Avenue. It is one of the most gorgeous streets I have ever had the pleasure to stroll down. The homes are large, elegant, and speak of a time gone by. I was snapping pictures left and right! I apologize ahead of time, but I'm posting the pictures here; they're just to amazing not to share!

At the end of Summit Avenue nearest to the Cathedral of Saint Paul, sits the huge home of James J. Hill. The home is no longer a residence. It sits at the top of a hill, with the backyard overlooking Interstate 35. Hill's descendants gave the house to the Catholic Archdiocese of Saint Paul in 1925. Years later, in 1978, it was obtained by the Minnesota Historical Society. It is now open for daily guided tours.

 I took one of the 75 minute guided tours, and it was well-worth the $10 I paid. The tour was informative, thorough, and well-planned. We were able to go in rooms on three floors of the house, ask questions, and even view china, silver, and other important artifacts. The home is full of special architectural touches, including hand-carved wooden paneled walls, a pipe-organ, and a call-system used when it was full of a staff. (shades of Downtin Abby) The home was completed in 1891. The house is composed of 36,500 square feet, including 13 bathrooms. Hill built it for his family to really live in, as a place for business associates to meet with him, and as place for entertaining. The tour points out how the mansion met all three of his visions.

Front of the Hill house

Front stairway

** Link for information on James J. Hill and the house

James J. Hill House

Where to Stay in NYC...

"To an outlander a stay in New York can be and often is a series of small embarrassments and discomforts and disappointments: not understanding the waiter, not being able to distinguish between a sucker joint and a friendly saloon, riding the wrong subway, being slapped down by a bus driver for asking an innocent question, enduring sleepless nights when the street noises fill the bedroom. Tourists make for New York, particularly in summertime -- they swarm all over the Statue of Liberty (where many a resident of the town has never set foot), they invade the Automat, visit radio studios, St. Patrick's Cathedral, and they window shop. Mostly they have a pretty good time. -- from Here is New York, by E. B. White

I have visited NYC eight times over the last several years and have developed some strong opinions about the city. First of all, I LOVE IT!!! I do; it's fantastic! Second. I don't really like Times Square. I know; what's wrong with me? It's just too full of tourists, and I'm like a part-time resident now. (I wish!) Those two opinions being stated, I stay in a hotel well removed from the madness of Times Square. One of my favorite areas in New York City is the Upper Westside, and I've found a hotel there that meets all my needs. It is on a quiet corner, halfway between Central Park and Riverside Park. It's around the corner from a major 1, 2, 3 Subway stop. (By riding a 2 or 3, you can be at Times Square in three stops!) The hotel is near a great restaurant, a deli, a frozen yogurt shop, and a Duane Read. It's my home-away-from-home.

My hotel of choice is Days Broadway. It is on Broadway and 94th Street. There may be fancier hotels further downtown, but I am quite happy with this small quiet setting. They are gradually renovating the rooms, and I have been impressed with the new look. The rooms are on the smaller side, but since I usually vacation alone that has not been a big deal. There is no restaurant, but that's not unusual for a hotel in the city.  There is a concierge on duty through the day, a doorman, a friendly front desk staff, and conscientious housekeeping staff. There is also an onsite fitness room, which I have never used because I usually get enough exercise from power-walking everywhere.
NEW INFORMATION!!! This hotel has become very rundown. They have also gone up in price. Does that even make sense???? I have read terrible reviews lately. I will not be staying there again until I hear anything different!!!

I have stayed in three other hotels on different visits. The first I can't even remember the name of; I was THAT unimpressed. I have also stayed at Hotel Pennsylvania and Milford Plaza (now called Row NYC). Both of these hotels are in the Times Square area. They each average $150 - $160 a night in the summer, while Days Broadway averages closer to $140. A bigger consideration for me than the $10/night difference is that I can walk out of my hotel at any time and not have to step over or around a homeless person. That has become a big problem in the Times Square area.

Through research, I have found that it is better to reserve your room directly through the hotel, especially if you are a member of any rewards program like Wyndham Rewards. Also, direct reservations increase your chances of a free upgrade. I got that once at Days Broadway, and it was awesome!

If you decide to visit NYC and you stay here, be sure to comment and let me know how your stay went. I hope that you are satisfied with anything that I recommend, and if not, I'd like to know.

**Hotel Notes:
Days Hotel Reservations
Address: 215 West 94th Street
Phone: 1-866-238-4218